Hi folks
I do not know if this is even available but are there any portable flash systems (possibly with a battery pack) that are sufficiently powerful (i.e greater than 300 w/s) which I can use to over power the sun? Any advice or links would be much appreciated.
Colin

Hi Colin. Hope you are well. The only thing I can think of off hand is studio flash with a travel pack battery.

Kevin
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http://www.anochecer.co.uk
http://www.kevinjamesphotography.net

My 1200w Profoto B2 generator's fine for this. You can also buy a 'twin' head that can let you use two generator packs simultaneously (ie. 2400w)

More power can be realised using the right modifiers, eg. Their Magnum reflector produces double the guide number over the standard Zoom reflector.

Best option though IMO is either a leaf shutter setup or a camera with electronic shutter.

Using Canon 1Dmk3 bodies with a correctly tweaked Pocket Wizard TTL trigger and high speed flash, some people have managed to achieve up to 1/500th 'true' sync but it's very variable depending on flash equipment used and is a pain to configure

Dinasa Fotografía
C/ Capitan Gaspar Ortiz, 20 bajo
C.P.: 03201
Elche - Alicante

May be able to help you as I think they sell Bowens kit.

Kevin
---------
http://www.anochecer.co.uk
http://www.kevinjamesphotography.net

The encarta Safari pack is excellent, two lights, one a ring light, an amazing battery pack and a very suitable box, all light and manageable. I have been very happy with mine and I know Tony Nutley likes his.

Edit, lights have bowens fittings, so most diffusers work on them also

When you say overpower you mean make the area not illuminated by the flash appear dark? The easiest answer to this is to shoot later in the day when there is less Sun. I'm sure you can spen tens of thousands on a system that allows you to overpower the mid day sun, but I've never really understood why anyone would bother. There is a triple flash holder to make the best use of several off camera flashes if you need extra power (or enough so high speed sync is effective) which you can see here http://strobist.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/lastolite-triflash-sync-triple-threat.html

Alternatively 2 good sized mirrors set up to throw back onto the subject.

Ordinary reflectors would do to fill in but wouldn't overpower.

Again i'm not sure why you would want to do this though.

quoting post from Diceman199:

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Alternatively 2 good sized mirrors set up to throw back onto the subject.

Ordinary reflectors would do to fill in but wouldn't overpower.

Again i'm not sure why you would want to do this though.

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I doubt many models could take that amount of light in their faces

As Paul says, later in the day and also, if you are only shooting half length, you can get your light in a hell of a lot closer than full length. Later in the day will give a much nicer sun and sky too.

Innovatronics make a pack with standard 13 amp outlets, so you can use any mains powered flash units. About 350/400 quid from memory. Have you tried your flash set at +2? Seems an obvious question I know but your synch speed with mains units can be as low as 180th?

quoting post from OldMaster:

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Have you tried your flash set at +2? Seems an obvious question I know but your synch speed with mains units can be as low as 180th?

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You seem to imply speedlites are considerably quicker for sync, they're not.

On slower studio flash you do often have to reduce your speeds, and the triggers also have an effect but with decent gear (I use Pocket Wizards and Profoto) the sync speed is no different under normal triggering (1/250th on my 1Ds mk2). Studio flash is also vastly more powerful, my 1200w head would need around 32x flagship speedlites for comparable output.

If you're referring to high speed sync with speedlites, I suggest you learn how the technology works as it doesn't necessarily give you an advantage.

this may be of interest



Lead me not into temptation, I can find the way myself

Link: No Caption

Hi folks
Thanks for all the comments and ideas, much appreciated.
Colin

quoting post from mattharper:

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I doubt many models could take that amount of light in their faces

As Paul says, later in the day and also, if you are only shooting half length, you can get your light in a hell of a lot closer than full length. Later in the day will give a much nicer sun and sky too.

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par broiled model anybody? Part of the I can't see why reasoning.

To over power the sun you need to be able to lay down something over 1 horse power worth of light per square yard....

I know....it's mixing my units but tis true (if my aging mind recalls properly)

I use a Lencarta Safari 600w battery pack, it takes one or two heads including a ring flash. Modifier fitting for head is Bowens so large range available

David

www.mansestudio.co.uk

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Link: Lencarta site

A single speedlight is enough ... the key is proximity

I dont understand or even care for the maths, from experiance it really doesnt matter the only thing that does matter is the result ... in this picture you can see the angle of the sun on the groyne the hard shadow from the model comes from a single SB600 on a tripod

Such days are built for FP mode......

Get the shutter speed up to deal with the sun, and give the flash a chance!

quoting post from MattMiller:

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A single speedlight is enough ... the key is proximity

I dont understand or even care for the maths, from experiance it really doesnt matter the only thing that does matter is the result ... in this picture you can see the angle of the sun on the groyne the hard shadow from the model comes from a single SB600 on a tripod

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but there is no sun in that pic Matt

I think Colin is referring to shots where the sun is in the image

quoting post from Bob_d:

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Such days are built for FP mode......

Get the shutter speed up to deal with the sun, and give the flash a chance!

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As I mentioned in my post earlier, HSS (High Speed Sync) or FP mode (same thing) don't necessarily give you an advantage.

Sure, you'll be able to use silly shutter speeds and be able to shoot wide open but at the expense of vast amounts of flash power which you'll need to overpower the sun. The charts for my Canon speedlites go as low as a guide number of 3 or 4 for HSS mode - truely awful. You also have minor issues getting the flash off-camera for this also.

Admittedly well-known photographers such as Stephen Eastwood and Joe McNally shoot using this, but how often do you see their setups in bright sunlight using less than (say) half a dozen speedlights?

I also use a Lencarta Safari pack with a cheap radio transmitter. So far 100% reliable and enough power for anything I would want to do. If I'm using speedlights then I would tend to look for an area of open shade/diffused sunlight to work in - unless I could get the speedlight(s) very close to the model.

I wouldn't claim to be an expert, but it's always struck me that most speedlights don't have much power - especially once you start to diffuse their output. McNally et al tend to work with multiple speedlights which obviously helps!


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quoting post from MattMiller:

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A single speedlight is enough ... the key is proximity

I dont understand or even care for the maths, from experiance it really doesnt matter the only thing that does matter is the result ... in this picture you can see the angle of the sun on the groyne the hard shadow from the model comes from a single SB600 on a tripod

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Oi Miller ... you have no right to make such comments in this thread ... this is a "BRIGHTER THAN THE SUN" thread

(and of course it makes SO much sense to try to do this, just for the hell of it, in a desert with the sun blazing ... as opposed to waiting until sunset or when the sun is less intense)

quoting post from mattharper:

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but there is no sun in that pic Matt

I think Colin is referring to shots where the sun is in the image

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hey I might be fine with dropping my camera in the sea and getting hummus in the mirror assembly but even im not mad enough to point my camera actually at the sun ... pfft