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Author Topic : Lens Flares 
ccp

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Views : 2253  Sep 21, 2012 5:16pm

Which filter is it to stop lens flares. Sorry, I should know this by now.

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silksky

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 21, 2012 6:22pm

I thought it is often a filter causing the lens flare, a lens hood and no filter is the best bet, even indoors in the studio.

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CSD_Images

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 22, 2012 1:21am

It's called a hood, the front elements of a lens is coated and interior elements are designed to minimise lens flares. The hood stops any peripheral light entering the lens.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 22, 2012 5:07am

Thanks to both of you for those answers. That's what I thought, I bought the biggest hood I could find, and always use it. When I use my studio flashes I get a bright spot in the middle of the images. I assume it's flare. It normally happens when I use two lights for a white background, and two lights in front of the model.

I have tried turning off each light to see which one is causing it, but that doesn't work. I'll have to spend a day experimenting, to figure it out. Anyway, thanks again.



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CSD_Images

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 22, 2012 7:41am

If you're in a small studio you might be experiencing bounce back, you'll need to flag the lights and or move them closer to the background to reduce the light (inverse square law).



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 doctorontop



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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 5:20am

As others have said a lens hood and /or flagging. However you can also get great results by just using your hand in place of a hood. By changing the position of your hand and/or opening up your fingers, combined with a bit of practice, you can introduce controlled flare, on the hoof into your images.

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MattMiller

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 5:43am

quoting post from  doctorontop:

However you can also get great results by just using your hand in place of a hood. By changing the position of your hand and/or opening up your fingers, combined with a bit of practice, you can introduce controlled flare, on the hoof into your images.

I always just use my free hand, you get way more control that way ... i cant use a lens hood because i never crop my images: at some focal lengths the hood can creep into the edge of the image.





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Andy_B

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 5:49am

quoting post from ccp:

Thanks to both of you for those answers. That's what I thought, I bought the biggest hood I could find, and always use it. When I use my studio flashes I get a bright spot in the middle of the images. I assume it's flare. It normally happens when I use two lights for a white background, and two lights in front of the model.

I have tried turning off each light to see which one is causing it, but that doesn't work. I'll have to spend a day experimenting, to figure it out. Anyway, thanks again.



Are you using a reflective background?

You need to move your lights more to the side, to change the angle they're hitting the backdrop at and stop the reflection.

Read "light: science and magic" to understand the "family of angles" concept.

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 Razoir



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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 6:34am

The biggest lens hood will not necessarily do it. The correct hood for the lens in use will do better. As said flagging with your hand will do a better job but better still is a piece of cardboard held in your hand or a flag device mounted on the hot shoe.You will need to reposition the flag every time you move the lens.

You will get better results with a fixed lens rather than a zoom as then the match between hood and lens will be consistent.

Huge Hairy Jeremy

Website: www.photoartimages.org

Remember, Trolls' brains are silica based and only function properly at temperatures lower than minus 72 degrees Kevin.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 7:19am

quoting post from CSD_Images:

If you're in a small studio you might be experiencing bounce back, you'll need to flag the lights and or move them closer to the background to reduce the light (inverse square law).



Ahh I will try that, thanks.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 7:22am

quoting post from  Razoir:

The biggest lens hood will not necessarily do it. The correct hood for the lens in use will do better. As said flagging with your hand will do a better job but better still is a piece of cardboard held in your hand or a flag device mounted on the hot shoe.You will need to reposition the flag every time you move the lens.

You will get better results with a fixed lens rather than a zoom as then the match between hood and lens will be consistent.

Huge Hairy Jeremy

Website: www.photoartimages.org

Remember, Trolls' brains are silica based and only function properly at temperatures lower than minus 72 degrees Kevin.


Thanks, I use a Nikon 50mm 1.4. I do use barn doors on my background lighting, but I think it maybe too bright.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 7:24am

quoting post from Andy_B:

Are you using a reflective background?

You need to move your lights more to the side, to change the angle they're hitting the backdrop at and stop the reflection.

Read "light: science and magic" to understand the "family of angles" concept.


No, just a white sheet. It's so small here, I'm limited for space, but I'll try it if I can get them any wider. Thanks.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 7:28am

Thanks Matt and John, I never thought of using my hand, I'll try it.

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Knockout

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 23, 2012 10:05am

I've had trouble with Nikon 50mm lenses doing exactly this. Can you try another lens - a zoom or a 60mm? It is a known fault.



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GeoffM

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 24, 2012 5:16am

I'm a bit late to this party, and this is a bit obvious, but have you checked for dust/finger prints/other marks on both ends of your lens?

Geoff
Gproductions

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 24, 2012 8:03am

quoting post from GeoffM:

I'm a bit late to this party, and this is a bit obvious, but have you checked for dust/finger prints/other marks on both ends of your lens?

Geoff
Gproductions


I always have a clean before a shoot. Maybe I should check more carefully.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 24, 2012 8:05am

quoting post from Knockout:

I've had trouble with Nikon 50mm lenses doing exactly this. Can you try another lens - a zoom or a 60mm? It is a known fault.



I haven't got another lens. I am thinking of buying a 35mm though. Mine always takes me in too close, for the small areas I use to shoot in. Thanks.

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Knockout

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 24, 2012 5:42pm

Another solution might be to reduce the power of the lights and shoot at f/8 or wider. I had a quick google of "hot spot Nikon 50mm" and started reading and it seems to be a problem mostly at the smaller aperture settings.

If you are considering another lens, I would try and borrow an 18-70 f/3.5-4.5 zoom and see how you get on. They are available used for about what I would expect to pay for a 35mm and they work surprisingly well. I have owned two before both good but one was very good in my opinion and you should not have the hot spot issue with this.

I hear good things about the new(ish) 35mm f/1.8 and if I came back to DX I would probably get one. There are issues with the older 35mm f2.0 - oil making aperture blades sticky so be careful if you are looking for one of these.

I quite like buying used lenses from my local London Camera Exchange - they are quite happy to accept it back within a short period if I have made the wrong choice.

I hope that all helps; good luck.

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 27, 2012 9:15am

quoting post from Knockout:

Another solution might be to reduce the power of the lights and shoot at f/8 or wider. I had a quick google of "hot spot Nikon 50mm" and started reading and it seems to be a problem mostly at the smaller aperture settings.

If you are considering another lens, I would try and borrow an 18-70 f/3.5-4.5 zoom and see how you get on. They are available used for about what I would expect to pay for a 35mm and they work surprisingly well. I have owned two before both good but one was very good in my opinion and you should not have the hot spot issue with this.

I hear good things about the new(ish) 35mm f/1.8 and if I came back to DX I would probably get one. There are issues with the older 35mm f2.0 - oil making aperture blades sticky so be careful if you are looking for one of these.

I quite like buying used lenses from my local London Camera Exchange - they are quite happy to accept it back within a short period if I have made the wrong choice.

I hope that all helps; good luck.


I used to have the 18-70 f/3.5-4.5, I actually sold it to buy the 50mm. Yes I will try and reduce the power for the background lights. I'm not too sure I'll be doing another white background set for a little while, but will post the conclusion here, if the answer is found. I've never been keen on the idea of secondhand lenses myself. I'd get a dodgy one for sure. Thanks.

Chris.

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Crippen

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 27, 2012 2:24pm

Chris,

If you're using a DSLR that shoots video, then chances are, there's a Matte Box out there that will fit your camera.

Dave

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ccp

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RE: Lens Flares Sep 30, 2012 7:14am

quoting post from Crippen:

Chris,

If you're using a DSLR that shoots video, then chances are, there's a Matte Box out there that will fit your camera.

Dave


Looks very impressive, I bet it costs as much as my camera.

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